In the early morning, Nida Pier comes alive. The yachts sway peacefully and the Curonian Lagoon reflects the golden light of the rising sun. We board the yacht, the sails still down, but already the excitement of the journey is building. The captain starts the engine and we slowly sail out of the marina. The Nida Lighthouse escorts us as the city skyline recedes
Soon the captain hoists the sails and the wind blows them away. As the yacht tilts, picking up speed, you can feel the true spirit of sailing. We sail along the Curonian Spit. To our left, golden dunes stretch out, covered in pine trees. To the right is the endless Curonian Lagoon, its water glistening in the sun like millions of diamonds. Seagulls fly in the sky, occasionally diving into the water for prey. The wind gently caresses our faces and the waves splash against the yacht's nose, refreshing.
In the distance, we see the village of Pervalka, but soon leave it behind. We sail further north, enjoying the tranquillity and beauty of nature. When you reach the headland, the landscape suddenly changes. The tree line is thinning and the dunes are getting taller and more bare. We approach the Grey Dunes. The view is overwhelming in its grandeur - huge sand hills rise straight out of the lagoon, like some otherworldly landscape. Our yacht is skimming the waters of the Curonian Lagoon, its sails billowing like white clouds, catching a fresh and free sea breeze. The ship moves like a living organism, pulsating with each wave, its wood creaking and humming, telling centuries-old stories of fishermen and sailors.
On the horizon, as if rising from the depths of the lagoon itself, the Pervalka Lighthouse appears. Its silhouette is like a relic of the old world, preserved in an age of modernisation. The red and white stripes are reminiscent of the ancient flag of Lithuania, the symbol of blood and light embodied in this iron giant. But your gaze is directed further afield, towards another natural wonder - the Grey Dunes, located between Pervalka and Juodkrante. These dunes, also known as the Dead Dunes, are a unique corner of the Curonian Spit's nature, revealing nature's astonishing creativity.
Sailing in the Curonian Lagoon opens up wonderful views of nature and unusual, uniquely shaped dunes. The grey dunes of the Nagliai Nature Reserve showcase an impressive display of sculptures created by nature. As you approach the shore, you can feel how not only the lighthouse but also the dunes become more than a simple landscape. They become a metaphor - an embodiment of the eternal struggle between the forces of nature and human endeavour. Although often referred to as Dead Dunes, these dunes are in fact full of life. With their greyish hue and the shifting undulating shapes of the sand, they reveal all their beauty and diversity. The highest of these dunes, Nagliai Dune, towering 53 metres above the level of the Curonian Lagoon, stands as a silent witness to centuries of humanity's struggle against shifting sands. It is part of a spectacular 3.5 km long chain of dunes that blends into the surrounding highlands. Here, sand hills of varying heights, winding sandy veins, and sunken crevasses open up.
As you sail on, the Horse Horn with its warning beacon in the lagoon comes into view. This lighthouse protects against running aground on dangerous shoals. It is one of the most shallow and winding places in the Curonian Lagoon, requiring special vigilance from yacht captains. You breathe deeply and your lungs fill with history. The salty smell of the lagoon mingles with the pine resin and the aroma of the sand to create a scent that could be described as the 'essence of the Curonian Spit'. The smell carries with it tales of the old Curonians, of the sandy villages of Nagliai, of the hardships and joys of fishermen. As your yacht glides through the waters, the panorama is unforgettable: the shoreline is lined with towering dune hills and undulating sandy terrains. The surrounding highlands make the view even more spectacular. One of them is Cape Bulvikis, with its waterfront resorts. The other is Vecekrugs Dune, also known as the Dune of the Old Tavern, which rises 67 metres above the lagoon level. At the foot of the dunes, the calm, clear waves of the Curonian Lagoon flow. Interestingly, the depth of the lagoon here is shallow - just a few metres. The water level in the lagoon is not much higher than that of the Baltic Sea coast, to which the lagoon is connected by a shallow strait. For this reason, it is necessary to have a good knowledge of the fairways and to keep a close eye on the bottom of the lagoon when sailing a yacht, as it is full of unexpected shoals consisting of sandy veins or shoals.
As you approach your destination, the Grey Dunes gradually emerge in the distance, beckoning you with their loose, undulating sandy terrain. After passing through narrow water veins between sandbanks, we finally reach the very top of the dunes. We stop here at a safe distance from the mass of dunes.
Once anchored, you can swim in the warm waters of the lagoon or swim and land on the sandy shore for a short hike along the dunes. The grey dune tops, which look lifeless from a distance, suddenly come to life. The eye is drawn to the shadows of the various grasses, the patterns of the loose sandy strands, and the ear to the echoes of the waters lapping against the shore. This pure, unspoilt natural tranquillity, the transformation of the dunes' distinctive shapes and the eternal vitality of the marine environment create the totally unique atmosphere of the Grey Dunes. Your journey along the lagoon becomes not only a physical movement through space, but also a journey through time, a journey into yourself.
The Pervalka Lighthouse and the Grey Dunes become your inner compass, reminding you that even in life's worst waters there is always light and direction to guide you home, and that the beauty and history of nature will always be close by, beckoning you to discover, explore and protect. At night, this natural masterpiece takes on a whole new colour. As the sun sinks below the horizon, the waters of the lagoon turn black as obsidian. The light of the Pervalka lighthouse is a wake-up call, a flash every six seconds, like a heartbeat, reminding us that even in the darkest night there is a guide. At the same time, the Grey Dunes, shrouded in the shadows of the night, take on a mystical aura, like the abode of ancient gods. The night wraps you in its velvet cloak and the stars twinkle in the sky - the same stars that your ancestors watched as they sailed these waters centuries ago. The Pervalka Lighthouse and the Grey Dunes stand as bridges between epochs, links between earthly fragility and eternity. The sky overhead opens up like an endless ocean of stars. Without the light pollution of cities, the Birdwatching Trail stretches across the entire sky like a silver stream.
The stars here seem so bright and close that you could seem to reach out and touch them with your hand. The yacht rocks peacefully and there is an almost mystical silence around you, broken only occasionally by the gentle lapping of the waves against the hull. The moon, huge and full, rises above the dunes, illuminating them with silver light. The grey dunes transform at night into fantastic, almost unearthly landscapes. The moonlight creates a play of deep shadows on the dunes, emphasising their contours and giving them an aura of mystery. The sand dunes now look like giant, stagnant waves rising from a dark lagoon. Their peaks glow in the moonlight and their slopes are drowned in shadows, creating a play of dramatic contrasts. The lagoon turns into a black mirror at night, reflecting the stars and the moon. The surface of the water occasionally ripples with a light breeze or a passing fish, creating a magical dance of glitter. The night air is fresh and filled with the scent of sea salt and pine trees. Occasionally, the distant cry of a night bird or a splash of water can be heard as the nocturnal animals continue their mysterious lives.
This night scene creates a feeling of indescribable tranquillity and oneness with nature. Sitting on the deck of a yacht, time seems to stand still. The grey dunes reveal themselves at night in a very different way than during the day, reminding us of the beauty of nature and the mystery that still exists in our world. It is this special atmosphere that makes the images of the Grey Dunes so deeply etched in people's memories. Each yacht ride along these dunes opens up new experiences and reveals details never seen before. This is one of the main reasons why it is worth visiting, trying this activity and experiencing the unique, unrivalled charm of the Curonian Spit.
The Grey Dunes are not only a natural wonder, but also a living witness to the history of the Curonian Spit. They remind us of the constant interaction between the forces of nature and mankind, and the importance of protecting and cherishing unique corners of nature. Every visit here is an opportunity to get in touch with this history, to feel the grandeur and fragility of nature, to understand why it is so important to preserve this unique landscape for future generations.
